Match of the week

Spanish ham and orange wine
There were other dishes on the table* - but it was the jamon de Teruel, a lesser known ham from Aragon in Spain, that was the standout pairing with the orange wine I was drinking last week.
It came from a company called Oranj which operates a subscription scheme curated by different sommeliers and restaurateurs who choose the wines that go into the monthly selection. It has the rather splendid name of Dinamo Nucleo X, comes from Umbria and, as you can see, has a glorious amber colour and an appealingly soft apricot and quince-like character which made it good introduction to orange wine. It's also only 11%.
It doesn’t seem to be available currently from Oranj (a good reason for subscribing) but you can buy the 2019 from Natural Born Wine though it might not be as charmingly fresh and fruity. (It comes in litre bottles).
You could try other orange wines too, obviously. I also liked the 2021 Airene from Vinos Ambiz I also bought from Oranj which is sadly out of stock now too. (You do need to subscribe to take advantage of the more interesting wines they get in)
I think it’s the slight saltiness and umami in Spanish ham that made the combination sing. The iberico ham above would also work brilliantly. For other great pairings with orange wine click here.
*we also had a punchy potato salad with a gribiche (egg, cornichon and caper) dressing and a tomato and green bean salad
Top image by Aves y estrellas at shutterstock.com

Camembert-style cheese and amphora-aged Bacchus
I’ve long felt that white wine is as good, if not a better match for cheese than red but it takes chutzpah to serve it at the end of a wine dinner as Mark Hix and Rob Corbett of Castlewood Vineyard did at an event I took part in last week at The Fox Inn at Corscombe
The cheeses, which came from Hollis Mead organic dairy included Benville, a triple-cream brie-style cheese, Corscombe which is like a camembert and a washed rind camembert-style cheese called Marvel.
None was particularly pungent so caused no problems for this really interesting white, borderline orange wine from Castlewood called Artefact which is aged in amphorae. It’s made from the English grape variety Bacchus but tastes smoother and creamier than Bacchus typically does with more of a pear, quince and sage character than a typically elderflower one.
The bottle and label too are unusual, depicting the events of the 2020 vintage in which it was made (you can find the story of how it came about on Castlewood’s website) Sadly it’s sold out but you might be able to find the odd bottle at the Fox or at The Pig hotels as their sommelier at The Pig in the South Downs, Luke Harbor, was involved in the project. (You could create a similar match though with other skin contact wines and camembert-style cheeses)
You can buy the cheeses online from a site called Harvest Bundle.
For other matches for Camembert-style cheese see What to Pair with Camembert

Gorgonzola dolce and La Stoppa Ageno 2005
I’m a bit obsessed with orange wine* at the moment. It seems to go with so many things not least blue cheese as this match with gorgonzola at Le Baratin in Paris underlined.
It may of course have been the age of the wine which was nearly 10 years old and from an unusually warm vintage that gave it an extra richness. It’s made from Malvasia, Ortrugo and Trebbiano and comes from the La Stoppa estate in Emilia Romagna (You can read US importer Louis Dressner’s interview with the owner Elena Pantaleoni here. As you can see (right) it was an incredibly deep colour and tasted (most deliciously) of dried apricots and quince.
The Gorgonzola was creamy and not too strong - a surprising cheese, admittedly for a French restaurant to be serving but Le Baratin - one of my favourite Parisian restaurants - is quite unconventional despite describing itself as 'traditionnell'.
The Solent Cellar has the 2007 vintage of the Ageno for £24 and Wine Bear for £25.33. The more recent 2009 vintage is stocked by Ottolenghi at £26.50 with 10% off if you buy a case of six
You can see my review of Le Baratin here.
* for those of you who aren't familiar with the term an orange wine is a white wine that is made by leaving the juice in contact with the skins as you would a red which give the wine its deep orange (or sometimes lighter than orange) colour.
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